What seafaring tips can you use that cost next to nothing, but will reward you with more time seafaring--and less time waiting for expensive sail repairs? Follow these simple steps to save lots of money and keep your sails in tip-top shape! The following article will lead us through the topic Ways to add life to your sailing chicago career.
Also to keep things manageable, I would suggest using only the mainsail, for now, it's best to wait until you have gained a certain amount of experience by using the sails individually at first. You will have plenty of opportunities to use both at a later time. Assuming that the main is up, next, you will need to turn the tiller towards your intended direction of travel until the sail finds the wind.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
Fold Your Sails to Sustain Life: Stuff a sail in a bag underway makes perfect sense. But once you get in, pull it out and do it right. Use the flaking method. Start at the foot, reach up and pull down a fold. Continue this all the way to the head. On high-tech Mylar sails, roll the sail up like a sausage from foot to head. Folding or rolling helps keep the delicate coating on the sail surface intact.
Wash and Dry Sails at Season's End and Check Hanks, Slides, and Slugs: Hose down your sails with fresh water and dry them on a clothes line. Or, drape them over a few lawn chairs. This simple bath removes salt crystals and dirt, which can chafe sail-thread if left unattended. Jib or staysail hanks need the care to keep from freezing up with corrosion at the piston. The same goes for your mainsail slides (external) or slugs (internal). Wash these fittings with fresh water to keep them corrosion-free.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
Next, you'll need to turn or come about. There are essentially two ways to accomplish this, by tacking or turning upwind is one way, or you can jibe or turn downwind which is faster than a tack turn. The reason being is that in a jibe turn you have the wind behind you pushing the sailboat through the turn, as opposed to a turning into the wind in a tack turn.
Also to keep things manageable, I would suggest using only the mainsail, for now, it's best to wait until you have gained a certain amount of experience by using the sails individually at first. You will have plenty of opportunities to use both at a later time. Assuming that the main is up, next, you will need to turn the tiller towards your intended direction of travel until the sail finds the wind.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
Fold Your Sails to Sustain Life: Stuff a sail in a bag underway makes perfect sense. But once you get in, pull it out and do it right. Use the flaking method. Start at the foot, reach up and pull down a fold. Continue this all the way to the head. On high-tech Mylar sails, roll the sail up like a sausage from foot to head. Folding or rolling helps keep the delicate coating on the sail surface intact.
Wash and Dry Sails at Season's End and Check Hanks, Slides, and Slugs: Hose down your sails with fresh water and dry them on a clothes line. Or, drape them over a few lawn chairs. This simple bath removes salt crystals and dirt, which can chafe sail-thread if left unattended. Jib or staysail hanks need the care to keep from freezing up with corrosion at the piston. The same goes for your mainsail slides (external) or slugs (internal). Wash these fittings with fresh water to keep them corrosion-free.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
Next, you'll need to turn or come about. There are essentially two ways to accomplish this, by tacking or turning upwind is one way, or you can jibe or turn downwind which is faster than a tack turn. The reason being is that in a jibe turn you have the wind behind you pushing the sailboat through the turn, as opposed to a turning into the wind in a tack turn.
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